Denyse Duval '56
Denyse describes her early years in the jewelry business as
"boot camp." She spent two years on the road in a sales
capacity, then settled down to business in New York
City, primarily working with design, stone selection, model-makers,
stone-setters, casters and engaging in high-level meetings. During
the 1980s, Denyse's designs were featured in Tiffany catalogues
and The New
York Times. She was immersed in every aspect of the jewelry
industry even attending the international jewelry shows
in Basel, Switzerland, and working directly with lay-out boards,
examining more than 250,000 pearls for quality assurance purposes
for the design "Pointelle"©Tiffany & Co.
After commuting for 13 years to the City, she felt she had all
the tools to work directly with her own clients. Denyse had the
sources and resources to carry an assignment from inception to
completion at the highest level. So in 1994, she took a leap of
faith and started her own design business.
It's clear that Denyse followed her heart after raising her children
and settling into a traditional 1950s life, when pursuing a career
was not encouraged for women. In those days, she did volunteer
work for groups like the Visiting Nurses and Multiple
Sclerosis associations, and in the 1970s formed a cooperative with
12 other women known as the Gilliwrinkles. She made a large variety
of items, such as handbags, hand-painted frames, skirts and shawls,
and her creative juices were flowing. But it all didn't feel like
enough, and she "wanted
to sink her teeth into something more substantial." A chance
meeting with the president of Tiffany foretold what the future
would hold for her career path.
When Denyse ventured out on her own, she found she had time to
enjoy some adventure in eco-tourism. She traveled far and wide
to witness volcanos spewing fire in Costa Rica, to go on a safari
in Kenya and to kayak the fjords in Alaska. She's enjoyed the total
eclipse in the Galapagos and heli-hiked in the Canadian Rockies,
where she met her husband, William Pugsley. In between adventures,
she continued to build her jewelry design and consulting business.
Today, her business consists of all aspects from de-accession,
appraisals and design creation to obtaining outstandingly fine
gems at remarkably low prices by keeping overhead at a minimum
and working on small margins. Over the past decades, she has found
the best model-makers and stone-setters in the business, which
enables Denyse to execute a piece of jewelry to the highest standards.
Denyse claims that because of the number of steps involved in the
creation of superlative jewelry, each person involved has to be
top-notch. She initiates the process by creating a design, and
it may be just a very commercial concept, such as "Etoile"©Tiffany
& Co., rather
than some fanciful design, which, though beautiful, might be expensive
and of limited taste. She feels design always succeeds better if
it is part of a collection, where it coordinates best with other
similar pieces and holds greater commercial value. The model-maker
executes Denyse's design in wax. When it meets her specifications,
the wax goes into the caster and comes back to her as a silver
model. After fine-tuning by filing, it's returned to the caster
where rubber molds are made and used ultimately to make gold or
platinum castings. When the castings are accomplished, they must
be filed and pre-polished, the stones are set and all findings
are soldered in place. Finally, the piece receives its final polish
with buffers, brushes and jeweler's rouge, completing the finished
product.
Q: What
inspires your career in jewelry design?
A: "I
always loved jewelry (like most of us!) and was always creatively
involved, but it became focused when the president of Tiffany
showed great interest in my ideas and asked me if I would be
interested in working for Tiffany."
Q: How
did GA prepare you for your career in art?
A: "My
emphasis in the arts while at GA was in the area of dance with
Mrs. Pethick, and I have devoted considerable time in my adult
years to yoga, modern dance and even ballroom dancing, for which
GA was the catalyst. Jean Pethick was my mentor."
Q:
How did you train for your career after GA?
A: "My jewelry
career began 20 years after I had been married and raised three
sons, and my 25 years in the industry was initiated by full immersion
into the business."
Q:
What is your advice for students and alumnae interested in pursuing
jewelry design as a career?
A: "Take
a temporary position, perhaps in the pre-Christmas season, with
an "up-market" retailer, become familiarized with the product
ranges and make sure you really like the business. Follow that
with courses at the Fashion Institute of Technology to develop
jewelry design skills and /or at the Gemological Institute of
America to acquire an in-depth knowledge of precious stones and
pearls. Degrees in either of these institutions would be an advantage
for advancement in the jewelry field."
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"I
was given a gift and an edge at Greenwich Academy that I call
upon often. As you go forward through life, you discover
the gifts GA has given you."
~Denyse Duval
Pointelle©Tiffany
& Co.,1990,
gold, platinum, diamonds, pearls

Etoile©Tiffany
& Co.,
1985, gold, diamonds
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